Ecuador & Galapagos

16^th Feb – 11^th March 2018
 

Quito and the Beginning  16-20^th February 2018

I was dreading the middle of the night alarm call, and the shutting up of the house in the dark. Then Jill’s cousin came up with a superb solution. As you have a very early flight then why not spend the night at Manchester Airport. So we began our trip a day early with a relaxing evening at the Crowne Plaza which is so near to Terminal 3 that we could have walked. The flight via Amsterdam to Quito was long but everything ran to schedule and we were a few minutes early touching down. Carlos met us at the airport and drove us to our hotel, La Casona de la Rocha, in the historic centre.

Our first full day, Sunday, was a free day to ourselves. We walked slowly down to the Plaza Grande where a military band was playing. Then we took a taxi up El Panecillo to visit the huge statue of the Virgen de Quito. Back in town we had coffee and carrot cake before deciding that was enough for the first day. It rained later so we did not venture out again.

It was on the Monday morning that Milton came to call. He and his driver spent much of the day with us as we retraced our steps of yesterday, then came back to the Plaza Grande for the changing of the guard, a weekly event watched over by the President. Then we were driven via the Basilica out to El Crater restaurant above the caldera of Pululahua. After lunch we stopped at Mitad del Mundo, the monument at the equator, a beautifully kept area and fascination exhibition. As the afternoon rains began we were returned to our hotel and spent another quiet evening.

 
Napo Wildlife Centre  20^th – 23^rd February 2018

Carlos arrived promptly on Tuesday morning to take us back to the airport for the flight to Coca. After a short delay, Coca airport having closed with a safety issue, we got on board for a very short trip downhill into the Amazon rainforest. Here we were met by a team from the Napo Wildlife Centre who ushered us onto a long and fast narrow boat for a 2½ hour journey down the Napo River, one of the major tributaries to the Amazon. At the entrance to Yasuni National Park, we were transferred to small canoes that were paddled for 1½ hours up a narrow creek and out onto the lake in front of the Centre, a vision of paradise. We were allocated our room and our guide and, after a brief rest, attended a slide show and had a welcome meal.

Next day, Wednesday, began with a 5am wake up knock on our door, a very hasty breakfast and a 6am departure from the jetty. Delphin our guide for our entire stay helped paddle across the lake and led us on a walk in the gloaming through the jungle to a 120ft tower of metal steps. This we mounted with some trepidation but felt much happier when we got to the top and stepped onto a wooden platform in the uppermost branches of a huge tree emerging above the canopy of the jungle. Here we had almost 3 hours of the best birding of the holiday, identifying over 35 species. We returned to the lodge for a siesta before we finished the day with a sunset paddle around the waterways.

On the Thursday we were awoken even earlier, at 4.30am for an all day trip to the salt licks to watch the macaws and parrots. We set off in total darkness back towards the river which we reached at first light. Then we transferred to the larger boat for a 5 minute cruise down the Napo River to the clay-cliffed river bank where flocks of parrots came for their daily tasting of digestive supplements. We then sailed back up the river to the village, the home of the people that had established the wildlife centre. Here we watched a demonstration dance by the women of the village. Then back to the boats for another visit, this time a walk through the jungle to a bird-hide overlooking another salt lick. Here it took a little longer for the parrots to arrive but we were entertained by some scarlet macaws before the main show began. Suddenly the birds turned and all flew off as one. The show was over and we returned to the boats and the lodge for a late lunch and siesta.

 

Bellavista and the Cloud Forest  23-25^th February 2018

Again we received a 4.30am knock. Long lie-ins are not a feature of Amazonia. No time for breakfast today; it was straight into the canoes for the long paddle back to the Napo River. During the 2 ½ hour fast boat up-stream, we received some breakfast boxes which assuaged our hunger. The flight up to Quito was brief and early and we were soon back in the highlands driving around the outskirts of Quito and down the western side of the Andes. The cloud-forest was exactly that, cold damp clouds clinging to the mountainside. And Bellavista certainly was on a mountainside, situated on a ledge above huge drops, invisible in the mists. The rain set in as we arrived and it poured down all afternoon and night. We were freezing in our rooms situated in an old house adjacent to the lodge.

We must have looked pretty miserable the next morning, totally unprepared for the hikes on vertiginous paths running in rain-water. So Richard, the owner, organised a day out to the local town, Mindo. He gave us a driver/guide, who was a superb birder so we had a wonderful day at some bird-watching farms and looking round the butterfly-breeding centre. And we had a visit to a chocolate factory. The weather was improving all the time and we finally got a view from the lodge and a good evening was enhanced by a talk from a visiting scientist about the new species of mammal, an olinguito, that had been identified and was sitting conveniently in a tree about our heads eating a banana.

 

The Pan-American Highway  25 - 28^th February 2018

On Sunday morning Carlos picked us up and drove us back up the mountains, stopping briefly at the mirador at Pululahua before picking up the Pan-American Highway at Quito and driving for another hour or so to Lasso where we turned off down a bumpy lane to the amazing Hacienda La Cienega, a magnificent old house at the end of a drive of eucalyptus trees. The next morning he returned to drive us into the Cotopaxi National Park. As we gained altitude, the clouds cleared off the volcano and by the time we arrived at the Limpiopungo Lagoon, the mountain was clear and in all its glory. And to add to the stunning views, a halo appeared around the sun, a 22 degree halo with rainbow edges. We walked round the lake, enjoying the gulls and ducks on the water and the birds of prey above us. Then we retired to a small tea shop in the botanical garden and then went back to the hacienda, our hotel, for a quiet afternoon. We met a pair of Americans, Diane and Richard,  who had bought a house near Quito and spend some of each year travelling through Ecuador. We invited them to join us for a meal in the evening and had a very pleasant evening chatting away about our different experiences.

It was time to move south. So we got away quite early on Tuesday morning for a drive towards Latacunga and the Quilotoa Loop. By then time we arrived at the edge of Quilotoa crater we had lost yesterday’s beautiful weather and dark and threatening clouds were rolling in. We declined Carlos’s suggestion that we walk down to the lake and chose instead to drive back to Latacunga and have lunch in a small restaurant. Then we came back to the Pan-America for the long drive south to Riobamba. It was late afternoon before we pulled up outside the Santa Isabella Hotel. It was dark before we settled in so we had no chance to explore the city centre. We ate at the hotel and got an early night.

We had an alarm call for 5.30am and were driving by 6am with no time for breakfast. Carlos took a short cut out of Riobamba and then took some time in finding his way back onto the Pan-American Highway. So we arrived in Alausi with very little spare time before the train was scheduled to depart. We had tickets for the Devil’s Nose train that runs down a spectacular gorge to Sibamba, waits an hour and then returns the same way. We shared a carriage with a party of German’s so fared badly in the elbow-pushing competition to get the best views.

The train had to reverse at one point to lose height down a cliff. At Sibamba, the bottom station, there is a lovely new station with café and toilets. A local dance group gave a performance for our benefit. Then the train driver whistled us back on-board for the return trip. The ever southerly drive continued through magnificent mountain scenery, steep-sided green hills farmed to the highest point. Our next port of call was to the archaeological site at Ingapirca where Inca and Canari ruins had recently been unearthed. As we descended into the outskirts of Cuenca, the heavens opened and the side roads became raging torrents. But it had stopped by the time we were queuing in the Cuenca traffic, waiting to arrive at our lovely hotel, Santa Lucia, the nicest by far on the trip.

 

Cuenca & Guayaquil  28^th February – 5^th March 2018

Our guide Carlos wanted to take us on a trip out of Cuenca but we were adamant that we had heard great things about this city and wanted to spend all our time here. So he took us for a morning walk around the historic centre, the rose and flower market, the panama hat museum and the Pumapunga archaeological site and then left us to ourselves. We would not need him again. So after we parted from Carlos, we spent a day and a half just wandering the lovely old streets, sampling coffee shops and micro-breweries. We even found and enjoyed an Imax film at the planetarium We took a ride on the tourist sightseeing bus and did a bit of shopping. Two restaurants had been recommended to us. On the first night we went to Tiestos and sampled all the wonderful sources that were brought to our table. Jill had swordfish which looked delicious and we finished with a huge piece of cake and ice cream. The last night we made a reservation at El Mercado, supposedly the best restaurant in town. Here we had a table in the window overlooking the river and the new town beyond. We were joined by an American couple that we had met in our hotel and we enjoyed lovely company and stimulating conversation.

On Saturday morning (5^th March) we were picked up from our hotel and driven down the Guayaquil. Our driver stopped at the visitors centre in Cajas National Park but it was not a day for hanging around. It was wet windy and cold and the views, similar to the Lakes or Scotland matched the weather (just like home!). The descent to the coastal plain was through a peasouper of thick fog. How the driver kept to the road, I have no idea. Eventually we came out into tropical heat and humidity. We understood why our hotel in Guayaquil, the Wyndham, had air conditioning. It was the first time we had needed it on our trip.

We were pleasantly surprised at how nice a city Guayaquil appeared. We had a city tour by car on the morning of our only full day. Then we walked slowly and sweaty up and down the Malecon (waterfront) trying cafes and a great restaurant that sold local food very cheaply. It rained a lot so we were never without our umbrellas.

 

Galapagos  5^th -10^th March 2018

On Monday morning we were taken to the airport, very nearby, for a morning flight to San Cristobal. Here we were met by our guide to be for the week ahead, Billy from the yacht Majestic. A very short bus ride took us to the jetty and the zodiac out to the ship where we had a late lunch with our new companions. Then back to shore in the afternoon for a bus ride across the island to visit a giant tortoise breeding unit. Back on the boat we had dinner and then turned in early whilst the boat sailed through choppy seas to Floriana.

When we awoke on Tuesday morning we were anchored in Post Office Bay. The zodiacs took us to the beach for a wet landing (Teva sandals!) and a walk inland to visit the post box and hear about the history of residents on this little island. Jill tried a snorkelling trip after lunch but I stayed dry. Then we all went ashore on a different beach and visited a freshwater lake full of flamingos and then we walked across the peninsular to watch turtles and rays swimming off a storm beach whilst Blue-footed Boobies and Brown Pelicans roosted along the shoreline.

That night the boat set sail during dinner so I declined the meal and went to lie down as we ploughed through big seas. Next morning, Wednesday, we found ourselves anchored off Española. Here there was supposedly a dry landing but it proved problematic getting the zodiacs across the rollers that were traversing the landing jetty. But we got ashore and had a very rugged walk across part of the island passed colonies of sea lions, Blue-footed and Nasca boobies, to a view point overlooking a blow hole. Then it was back the same way for lunch of the boat. The afternoon consisted of a snorkelling expedition and a beach walk. I opted out of these and heard later that a zodiac had almost overturned in trying to beach in the strong seas. A last dinner and another night-time sail took us to Santa Cruz.

We had breakfast, packed our bags and went ashore for our last guided trip, a bus ride to an area of Giant Tortoises. Here we were shown a lava tunnel created in an ancient eruption of the volcano. Then we drove back via two enormous sink holes, the Twin Craters. Back on the jetty we took possession of our bags, said our goodbyes to our new companions and were on our own. A taxi driver knew where our hotel was in Puerto Ayora, wandering round its shops and cafes and visiting the Charles Darwin Research Centre. On our last night, we reserved a table at the Finch Bay Hotel and were joined by six of our North American friends from the boat for Annette’ s birthday meal.

 

The Journey Home

The programme of guides and transfers came to an end on Santa Cruz but the agents back home soon got us fixed up with a pick-up and transfer to Baltra airport on Saturday morning. A two-hour delay in our flight was not that important as we had a long connection time at Guayaquil. All looked to be on time for the international flight. The KLM plane arrived on time and we boarded as scheduled. But we soon realised that all was not well. The temperature on the plane was soaring due to faulty air conditioning. Just before people started to faint, the cabin crew made the decision to get us all off again and back in the terminal. In all we were delayed nearly three hours which, although a tail wind got us back ahead of the normal flight time, left us with only had 40 minutes at Schipol to get over to our connection flight. We just made the Manchester flight with five minutes to spare but our bags did not travel with us. So at Manchester we had to fill in lost baggage forms and travel home with only our hand luggage. The bags arrived the following day.

Retrospective

This was one of the most comprehensive and extensive explorations of a country that we had ever undertaken. In three weeks we experienced rain forest, cloud forest and mountain habitats, three major cities and the most unique of island archipelagos. It was a well-designed trip through the Andes and most of the travel plans worked perfectly. Talk of highlights is a complex issue, very subjective and influenced by factors such as weather, guides and accommodation. But the three days at the Napo Wildlife Centre stand out from all other visits. Our stay in Cuenca was our favourite city break and our days in Cotopaxi and Mindo will stay with us for ever. The Galapagos trip, long anticipated, was memorable for the demonstration of a population’s ability to live in harmony with its wildlife. Long may it continue.

Botswana, Zimbabwe & Zambia

10-28th August 2017

Introduction

It was time to revisit Africa. After trips to Asia and Central America, the call of the ‘Dark Continent’ had become too insistent. Three years ago we had driven ourselves through Namibia and we glimpsed new opportunities of discovery just over the horizon. I had recently re-read the Van der Post book ‘The Lost World of the Kalahari’ and then I was dumbstruck by Simon Barnes’ latest offering ‘Sacred Combe’. Could we combine a trip to the Kalahari, the Okavango Delta and to the Luangwa Valley?

Botswana

We flew with Emirates (we always seem to fly with Emirates) via Dubai to Johannesburg and, after a 5-hour wait, took the Air Botswana flight up to Maun in Botswana. Here we were met and driven to Meno A Kwena Camp on the Boteti River. Our tent was marvellous, the view over the river was mind-blowing after our long flights and our stay was wonderful. If only it had been for an extra night, it would have been perfect. But we had a wonderful game drive in Makgadikgadi National Park and saw enough zebra to last us a lifetime. It was annoying to have to miss the walk to the Kalahari tribes-people’s temporary home but we had met them the night before as they danced for us around the camp fire.

Then we returned to Maun airport for the Mack Air flight into the Okavango Delta. The landing strip was a very long drive from the boat station, over two hours of bone shaking tracks through the Moremi Game Reserve and then a boat trip out to Xobega Island Camp. Here the facilities were very basic although we did have solar powered electricity and intermittent wi-fi. Here we had our longest stopover, our only three night stay. This was a day too long, not because the delta is not a fascinating place but because the lack of boats and guides meant that each day was an exact repeat, the early morning boat trip back to the boat station having to double as the departure trip and the morning game activity. The only variation was the afternoon boat and sundowner voyage which gave us some great birding memories. Our guide did give us a walk around the back of the camp during the heat of the siesta period to alleviate some of the repetition.

But it was great to be on our way again via the all too familiar trip to the boat station and the long drive back across the Moremi. It was fascinating watching the small planes land and take off from the landing strip, seeing how the pilot looped over the strip before attempting to land to ensure there were no elephants around and that the safari vehicles were lining up to signal the ‘all clear’.  It was a lovely flight to Kasane over the waters of the delta and the forests of the north. Kasane has a modern airport and we were soon in the splendid Elephant Valley Lodge at the edge of Chobe National Park. After nearly a week of travel and bush camps, this seemed the lap of luxury: a spacious tent/chalet and electric blankets. We had some fabulous game drives in the park, seeing reams of wildlife on the flood plan of the Chobe River and finding lions and a leopard in the surround bush. The highlight was an evening boat trip on the river, nearly scuppered by having the wrong keys to unlock the padlocked boat.

Zimbabwe, Victoria Falls

We did not have time to do the morning game drive on the last day at Elephant Valley. We had a mid-morning departure scheduled to take us to the Zimbabwe border where we were handed over to a Zimbabwean guide and instructed to join a long queue in the mid-day sun to get our visas. Other guides were barging in and jumping the queue and we had to fight to get to the immigration hatch. Our guide offer no help but we fought off queue jumpers and, 90 minutes later, were sitting on a coach to Victoria Falls. After dropping everyone off at their posh hotels by the river, we were driven to the edge of town to Bayete Guest Lodge, a delightful spot in the quiet suburbs. This was a most relaxing part of our trip, just what we needed after a hectic week in Botswana.

We got a taxi down to the Falls in the morning, arriving before the tourist groups. We wore our waterproofs for the only time as we stood in the spray watching the main falls; much reduced we were told in this the dry season. But it was still a wonderful sight and an atmospheric place to walk in. We withdrew back to town for a late lunch and then retreated back to the lodge for our rest. And I was able to catch up with the football on television. A taxi in the evening took us down to the river for a meal in a new restaurant, the Zambezi House, not classy food but fun.

Zambia

There is always going to be a hiccup on every trip and the next morning was to be ours. We had been given specific instructions to rise early, before the official breakfast hours (although the staff provided us with everything we wanted), so we could be ready for a 7am pick up. Well, by 7.30am we were panicking. We had a flight in two hours’ time on the other side of the border. Our hotel was getting no answer to any phone calls to the travel agents. Eventually they got through and an hour late, a car arrived to take us to the bridge and border point. Here we were handed over to a Zambian guide and driver who checked us through immigration in seconds and raced into Livingstone and their new airport terminal. Proflight flew us to Lusaka and then on to Mfuwe, all without incident. Here we were met by a member of the Kafunta staff and we drove the hour or so to Kafunta River Lodge for a late lunch. Then we resumed our drive along rough tracks beside the river to Three Rivers Camp. Thus began six magical nights in the South Luangwa National Park.

The two nights we had at Three Rivers was as perfect as we have ever had in Africa, listening to the animals around the chalet and waiting for elephants to make their way through camp. The drives were fabulous and we had our first experience of a walking safari out in the bush. On day three we were introduced to Martin, the senior guide, and he led us on the four-hour walk to Island Bush Camp for our next two nights. Here we had amazing experiences including a Martial Eagle with its kill and a herd of the rare Roan Antelopes. We slept on an open platform whilst hippos grazed beneath or called to each other in the river. The last two nights were back at Kafunta River Lodge, the most luxurious of the three venues. The game drives from here were over a floating pontoon across the river and we came across African wild dogs and leopards hunting by day and by night. At the end of our stay we were asked which had been our favourite of the three camps. After careful thought we chose Three Rivers as a combination of all that we were looking for in a remote and well managed camp. We felt privileged to have experienced this quiet corner of the South Luangwa National Park at such an early stage in its tourist development.

Dubai and Conclusion

 

The flights from Mfuwe and Lusaka back to Dubai were smooth and on time. We had been faced with an awkward 8-hour stopover in Dubai so we had decided to make it 8 + 24 hrs and book into a city centre hotel. We had also splashed out on the ‘meet & greet’ service which whisked us quickly through immigration and into a limousine to the Palace Downtown. This was next to the world’s tallest building and near the Dubai Mall. It was far too hot to walk outside so we spent the day relaxing and eating in the Mall and the nearby Souk. We were thus fully reinvigorated for our flight back to Blighty and were able to get straight back into our home routine and prepare for visiting the grandchildren. Our photos contain treasured memories of the trip.

Myanmar

21st November - 10th December 2016

 

International Flights

As always, Emirates were spot on. Both out and back the flights were to time with comfortable changes at Dubai (helped by the return flight from Yangon taking off and arriving early). The A380 is a quieter and more comfortable plane than the Boeing 777 so the longer journey was the more pleasant.

 

Yangon

We were met at Yangon Airport and taken to the Savoy. The traffic is horrendous in the city and all transfers and trips were to take an age. The Savoy was a splendid hotel which was perfect for a restful settling in. Our guide Moe recommended a restaurant round the corner, the House of Memories, for our first evening but this was more interesting for the history of the house than for the food it supplied. So we stayed at the Savoy for the second night’s meal.

We had a tour of the city centre on our only full day in Yangon. The morning was spent looking at sites in ‘downtown’ and around the docks. We requested an afternoon rest and then had a sunset trip to the Shwedagon Pagoda which was one of the highlights of our trip. The rush-hour traffic back to the hotel was so bad that we finally abandoned the car and walked last few yards.

 

Bagan

We had an early transfer to the airport for the morning flight to Nyaung U, near Bagan. We were met by a lovely young guide, a local girl who was Bagan born and bred. It was far too early to book into our hotel so we took in a local market in Nyaung U before visiting a series of ancient temples, some containing frescos. There was some sign of the damage caused by the earthquake earlier in the year. We then booked into the Aureum Palace Hotel, a magnificent resort with pools, spas, restaurants and many chalets. After a short afternoon rest, we had a sunset drive to an old temple, joining several other parties perched precariously on top as darkness fell.

The next day we were driven to Mount Popa where we walked up 777 steps to the crest of a volcanic plug, a vertically sided finger of granite towering 800ft above the village. There was much relief that Jill’s knees stood the strain of the steep descent. We returned to the hotel for a quiet afternoon and did our own sunset trip to the top of the tower adjoining the hotel. The 9^th floor restaurant looked nice so we reserved a table, returned later in the evening for a wedding anniversary meal to be rewarded with the classiest food on the whole trip.

The River Cruise

We thought they were pulling our legs. We were told we were the only passengers for the 48 hour cruise up the Irrawaddy River to Mandalay. On board the Paukan 2012, we found that it was not a joke: we had the 18 cabin cruiser to ourselves. How embarrassing! It took some getting used to the individual attention we received but the crew were splendid in their attitude and we had a fabulous few days. We called into a very poor riverside village on the first day to see how basic life can be in a subsistence economy. Then the boat hit a fishing line and we had to haul up at the riverbank and await engineers from Mandalay who arrived late and worked through the night to free the propeller.

So at 4am the engines were powered up and off we set again against the stiff current to make up the lost time. We sailed for 14/15 hours on day two, stopping briefly to let us look around a more prosperous village busy with pot making. Here we had a song from the local school children who turned out for the tourists even though it was a Sunday, The next morning we had another early start and the engines fired up at 5am so that we could be on time for our next rendezvous. The city of Sagaing looked an absolute picture with its golden rooves and pogodas on every hilltop. It would have been an interesting place to visit. 

 

Pyin Oo Lwin & Hsipaw

Tun Tun and his driver were waiting at Sagaing on the riverbank as we said our farewell to the crew. There was a long and rather uninteresting drive round the outskirts of Mandalay, passing limestone quarries, a prison and many roadworks. Eventually the landscape got more dramatic as we climbed up onto the Shan Plateau, which is not a plateau per se but rugged hills split by deep canyons. On the way into Pyin Oo Lwin, we stopped at the governor’s house, now a hotel and museum, and then called in at an Anglican church; rather bizarre in this land of pagodas. We had a late lunch in a modern style coffee shop and then requested to be taken to our hotel, the Pyin Oo Lwin Hotel to rest after our long morning. We let the guide and driver have an afternoon off and walked ourselves round the gardens, complete with its orchid collection and butterfly house. We ordered a taxi in the evening and were taken round to a Feel restaurant on the side of a lake. It was so cold we did not really enjoy sitting in this unheated café. So we were glad to pick up our return taxi and climb into our bed beneath the thick covers.

The next day we were driven to Hsipaw, pausing briefly to view the train viaduct that we were to cross in two days-time. Our hotel in Hsipaw was positioned on the opposite side of the river to the town, access to which was by ferryboat. So we had lunch in Club Terrace which impressed us so much that we reserved a table for later. We again gave our guide an afternoon off whilst we had a short siesta and then re-crossed the river to try the chocolate cake in the café next door to Club Terrace. The evening crossing to the restaurant was very exciting in the total darkness and we were grateful to the beautiful young waitress who descended the restaurant steps to help us off the boat.

The next morning another boatman took us upstream to do an hour trek up to a monastery. The path wound up between fields of fruit and vegetables. It really is the most fertile of countries. On the way back down the river, we called at a Shan village of beautiful wooden houses, all on stilts to avoid river flooding.  We ended our trip with a visit to the Shan Palace, East Haw, where we had a talk from Fern, herself a Shan princess, about the Austrian girl who married a Shan prince, the subject of Twilight Over Burma, which we had read before our holiday. Fern also recommend another book, My Vanished World, by Nel Adams, who was her cousin who now lived in Cheshire very close to us. We had our meal in the hotel that evening and met an interesting couple from Gloucestershire.

The next morning we had to be at the station early because advanced bookings for the train are not possible. Our guide did the queuing for us and it was very busy. The train rolled along slowly on a most amazing journey spiralling down into a canyon before running along the edge of a cliff, through two tunnels and out onto the Gokteik Viaduct. Soon afterwards we met up with our driver again and we finished the final part of the journey into Mandalay by road. We drove passed the old fort, now in the hands of the military, and stayed at the Mandalay Hill Resort, a rather classy hotel. We popped down for happy hour in the bar and then ate at the Thai restaurant in the hotel.

 

Kalaw & Inle Lake

We had a very early start from Mandalay, breakfasting soon after 6am so that we were ready for a 7am transfer to the airport. This was a very long way out of the city in the wrong direction. It seemed to me that it would be easier to drive to Kalaw, but maybe not. The plane was early and we were only in the air for 25 minutes to reach Heho and its military airport. The guides are not allowed into this military area and we had to be escorted to where our guide, Kyin Kyin, and driver were waiting.

We had studied the schedule and found that we could make improvements to our plans for the next two days. I was very relieved that our guide agreed and supported these changes wholeheartedly. So we rearranged our scheduled afternoon trek for the next morning when it would be cooler and substituted a visit round Aungpan market, an afternoon rest, and a late trip round Kalaw town. The next morning we were able to get away on our four hour walk before the sun rose too high in the sky. We had a great young trek guide, a local lad who took us up and over the hills and through peaceful villages before dropping steeply down into the next valley and a popular cave/shrine.  We had a quick cup of tea before driving to Nyaungshwe and a late lunch in a lovely restaurant in a quiet part of town. Then it was onto the boat and away down the lake to our hotel, the Villa Inle Resort.

The next two days were as close to idyllic as it is possible to get, travelling round the lake visiting the various communities around its shores. We saw many local cottage industries, weaving, silver smiths, boat building and found interesting restaurants for lunch. The Villa Resort was quiet and the food was routine without being exciting but our chalet was lovely and peaceful. This fulfilled all our wishes of a mid-trip break after the previous week of travel.

 

Golden Rock and Hpa An

Another early start. Why do the flights go so early? We were picked up at 7.15am and driven back to Heho airport where we said our goodbyes to our fabulous guide and were escorted into the airport buildings. This time the plane was late and we were almost an hour down on a planned pickup time at Yangon. It was a delight to see Moe again, our guide from the start of the trip.

We then set off on an amazing day. It started quietly enough with a long drive across the flat delta around Yangon but eventually we arrived at the border with Mon State and here the landscape changed dramatically. The town of Kyaiktiyo is known as base camp and is the point at which we abandoned the comfortable car and its careful driver, grabbed a few overnight things and climbed into an open truck. Then we set off up the mountain on a desperately steep concrete road than made Alp d’Huez look like a flat stage of the Tour. We took some 50 minutes of bone shaking to reach the summit and chaos reigned. It was the eve of a major festival and it seemed that the whole population seemed bent on attending and spending the night on the bare mountain. We quickly booked in at the Mountain Top Hotel, risking the sheer drop to our bedroom that clinged to the mountain-side above a 3000ft drop. Then we walked up to the Golden Rock where our promised sunset was spoilt by a low bank of cloud on the horizon. The rock itself was an amazing sight. Pictures were duly taken and we retreated for an early meal and bed as the night got cold and windy.

The next day was pandemonium. I had not experience a crush like this since my last cup final at Wembley. And we were heading the wrong way! We were trying to get off the mountain when everyone else was coming up. Eventually our truck got us down to base camp but it struggled to find a place to disgorge us. It was a relief to be back in the car and onto smooth flat tarmac. There was then a long drive, broken by visits to cave/shrine complexes, before we got to our hotel outside the town of Hpa An in Karen/Kayin State.  This hotel was described as simple but had great potential, nice bungalows and restaurant, but the place just did not have that tourist feel to it. No seats or furniture round a lovely but total barren swimming pool. They have some way to go to get to the standards of service for the international tourist (but amazingly it was busy with French as well as Thai clients).

I have a suggestion for improving this part of the trip. The three days/two nights would have been better based in Mawlamyine with the visit to Hpa An as a boat trip upstream and car and cave visits on the way back. This would have reduced the amount of driving and given us more time in the more interesting of the two state capitals. But I would not have missed the monastery at U Na Auk for all the tea in Burma.

The Coda

The return to Yangon was a long drive with little of interest along the way. There was little sense in taking to the rail so we drove straight through to get into the city before rush hour. We had time for a late lunch at our ‘day’ hotel before repacking our bags for the trip home and resting for the evening. The transfer to the airport was just before mid-night and, because I had been able to check in online, we were soon through the preliminaries and spending our last kyats of a cup of coffee. The flight to Dubai was away early so we had time at Dubai to gorge ourselves on huge pieces of chocolate cake, our first for nearly three weeks. We were back in the café society.

 

Summary

This was a well-thought through trip which catered for most of our interests. The only drawback was a total lack of interest in the wildlife, but this seems general to the whole of SE Asia, not just in Myanmar. The highlight was meeting the people and talking politics. They were a most welcoming and friendly people. We loved the fact that we were not pestered and tips and donations were not expected but were gratefully received. We have rarely felt so safe and appreciated. We were privileged to get there so soon after democracy (or their version of it) has released them from their yoke. Things will change pretty quickly from now, and we hope that the people will not lose their charm and naivety which it was such a great pleasure to enjoy.

 

 

Mexico, Guatamala & Belize

28th February - 20th March 2016

Introduction

Here are some comments from our 2016 trip. In general all the hotels were lovely, small, boutiquey (as asked for and booked) and with wonderful service, comfort and cleanliness. And on the whole reasonable prices for food and drinks.  All our guides in all countries were excellent, knowledgeable, helpful and very much added to the holiday.  As well as the information about the sites, country and history etc. we found the talk about life, politics and living in modern Mexico (Guatemala and Belize) enlightening and most interesting.  And having the guides made all the border crossings very smooth.

 International Flights

Thomas Cook flight from Manchester to Cancun was on time and very comfortable (lots of leg room) both ways and went well. Extras have to be paid for, such as headphones, decent films and alcoholic drinks, but prices not exorbitant.

The meeting at Cancun airport went ok, but it was momentarily confusing to keep walking until outside the terminal building when we thankfully saw name held up. The process was all explained in the detailed schedule that we received from our guide, Angel, but of course it is too late by then, but it didn’t create a problem.

Chichen Itza – Hacienda Chichen Resort

The main feature of the Hacienda was its proximity to the archaeological site. This meant that we were amongst the first into the site in the morning and then later out through a back gate straight into the hotel grounds. All this before the bulk of the crowds arrived; the vendors had set up their stalls and the midday heat.  This was our first Mayan site, and it was amazing for us.  However I don’t know if there is any form of feedback (to tourism authorities) – but all the vendors on site add nothing to it and in many ways rather degrade and detract from it.  We found no other sites had vendors on them (and were the better for it); they were usually at the entrance.

Mérida – Casa Azul

Easy drive to Mérida so we had a leisurely start and were in Mérida by lunch time. Our guide, Angel, drove us round the city centre before taking us to our hotel, giving us a good idea of the geography of the city and the main points of interest. Then he left us for the afternoon and the following free day.

This we spent out at the new museum Mundo Maya and visiting the interesting museums and buildings in the middle of town. The whole Mundo Maya experience was slightly disappointing.  The Mayan exhibition was wonderful, good layout and well labelled and described but , the building didn’t quite work.  Looks great but no coffee bar, no book shop and the upper floors of the building were closed due to technical faults.  And public transport not sorted out yet!  and it’s a long way out of town.   We just felt they were missing some really good marketing opportunities and it has the potential to be wonderful!

Stayed at Casa Azul, which was lovely.  We were the only guests on the first night and it seemed strange eating on our own in the evening with our own full time waiter, but lovely meal. We went out to the Rose & Chocolate on night two and had a good meal in spite of power supply problems that had plunged the place into darkness when we arrived

Campeche

We called in at Uxmal and Kabah on our drive down to Campeche. Uxmal was staggering, beautiful and remains my (Pete’s) favourite of all the Mayan sites. Scared myself rigid by climbing the Great Temple and then having to reverse the process down its front face.

Stayed in Hacienda Uayamon, way out of town, in an old hacienda/sisal factory. It first looked a bit weird, damp and mouldy but after three days we were perfectly at home in our cottage in the jungle, our swimming pool in the ruins and totally relaxed.

On day one we had an early visit to Edzna, again beating the visitors and having the site to ourselves. Then we went back into the city of Campeche (UNESCO Word Heritage) and were given a personal walk round the old town and sat in the now pedestrianised main street for a light lunch. The next day we had on our own to explore local paths around the hotel and relax. Room service by the pool wonderful!

Palenque

This was a very long drive, the only point of interest in the flat landscape being to various state borders and learning from our guide a history of the country. Eventually we arrived at Hotel Quinta Cha Nab Nal and said goodbye to Angel who had been with us for nearly a week, and was an excellent guide.

This was a remarkable hotel, only 10 years old or so with a lovely swimming pool set in a recently planted garden. I was fascinated by the owner, Raphael, who was a mine of information on the Mayan Culture having written a reference book on the subject.  I suggested in our feedback to his hotel that he gave a weekly lecture on Mayan history before the evening meal and that he got his wonderful book translated into English – sadly, it’s only in German, French and Italian and it looked really good and informative.

We had a new guide, Miguel from San Cristobel, for this part on the tour. He was brilliant and gave us a fascinating tour of the Palenque archaeological site. This was our first experience of hot sticky rain forest but we quickly got used to it. The state of Chiapas was like a different country, feeling for the first time like Central America. Migrants walking through on their way to the USA, (until Trump builds his wall!

 

Petén – El Remates Area

The transfer to Guatemala was a very long but interesting day. A 6am start, breakfast on the road, and Miguel had us first into Bonampak. We were staggeringly the only people there (what a treat) when we walked across the site and climbed up to the frescos – this meant we could spend as long as we wanted looking at the frescoes. Then it was down to the river and, on the way getting our emigration done before we got into our boat to go downstream to Yaxchilan. Good planning by Miguel, as this meant we didn’t have to call back into Mexico on the way back. We shot straight through and over to the other bank to meet our Guatemalan driver, Nixon.

The first two hours of the drive to Flores was on a grit road and it was a relief to reach tarmac. We stayed at La Lancha, one of Coppola’s three hotels (other two are in Belize). Beautiful hotel but spoilt by a 14km entry grit road of pot holes and puddles which took 30 minutes to drive. It would have been OK as a one-off but doing it six times over the next three days was a pain. As they were not busy, we were upgraded to a new suite and were treated like royalty. We suddenly felt very comfortable with the friendly Guatemalans, a feeling that stayed with us throughout our stay in the country.  La Lancha lovely, only comment is the menu is slightly limited but not a real problem.

 

Orlando was a great guide and a keen birder so we spent as much time with our binoculars as with Mayan history during the two days at Tikal and Yaxha. The first difference here is that the Guatemalans have built wooden stairways up some of the major structures, so you can have safe and comfortable access to fabulous viewpoints over the jungle.

 

Antigua – Posada del Angel

Another early start and the morning flight to Guatemala City. TAG, the air company has its own hanger/terminal building so arrival was quick and personal. One point here to remember is about the supposed weigh limit. The 9-10kg had dominated our packing and travel plans. However there were people (Americans?) with huge cases and were not being questioned or charged and our driver told us that Viaventure (our local agents) put so much business their way that TAG would never complain about their clients’ luggage. So we could have taken more, but that was no bad thing to travel light.

 

Our ‘city break’ was as near perfect as it could be. Our guide, Jane, for the introductory walk is an English lady who fell in love with Antigua on her gap year travel many years ago, stayed, married an Antiguan and had three children. The hotel was a delightful, a cool haven just outside the city centre where the staff could not have done more for us, booking a volcano walk for me and looking after Jill when she got a stomach upset. The weekend we chose was a weekend of Easter processions, floats of the Easter story carried round the city accompanied by bands and huge crowds. Whether this was purely a lucky coincidence or was designed into our schedule, I shall probably never know but it was a privilege to share this weekend with the local people.

Chan Chich, Belize

Well what can you say about this place. A very very early pick up from our hotel, 4.30am to beat the traffic to the airport, a lovely flight with TAG. Mist at Flores airport (now called Maya Mundi) kept us in the air an extra ten minutes but Nixon was there once again to drive us across the country to the Belize border. Here we were handed over to Edgar, our Belize guide who took us to a small air strip near San Ignacio where Mark, of Javier Air flew us to Gallon Jug. We arrived so early that our cabin was not ready but we had lots of comfy chairs to dine and relax whilst everything was prepared.

We then had a most fabulous two days birding in the jungle with some spectacular sightings including a fork tailed flycatcher and a rare Yucata Poorwill Night Jar. Tarantulas on the night drive. Heaven.  And did Pete mention all beer (and soft drinks) at Chan Chich was free?!

It was sad when we came to leave. But a wonderful flight across the country to Belize City Airport and a superb Tropic Air flight up the coast to Cancun cheered us up.

 

Esencia Hotel - Mexico

The drive down the coast to Estancia was back to the flat lands.  The hotel was lovely, and a great beach setting but the highly priced drinks and meals reflected we were back on the mass tourist track, and had to watch it.  The only expensive “extras” place we stayed though throughout the holiday.

The tour to Tulum, with Roberto, the next morning did not disappoint. The situation of the ancient walled city was just superb. Again we got an early start to beat the crowds, and here they really do get crowds. Then it was back to the hotel, a quick shower and change, lunch overlooking the beach, late check out and back to Cancun airport for the flight home.

Our only complaint with Thomas Cook was that we could not do the on-line check-in from the Mexican end so we had to join the queue. Thomas Cook has now moved to Terminal 3, but our guides knew this so we were helped into the queue and soon were boarding. Spoke with the Thomas Cook representative at the airport who said on-line check-in was 48-36 hrs before the flight, not the usual 24hrs.  Have given this as feedback directly to Thomas Cook.

With the wind behind us we were landing in less than 9 hours. What a shock it was walking out of Manchester Airport into a winter morning!)

Local Agents

I was rung several times by Patricia of Journey Mexico to check on our progress. Very thorough with top class guides, drivers and transitions. Viaventure in Guatemala and Belize were again on the phone and all arrangements worked perfectly. Top rate service.

Summary

A superbly organised trip which met all our wishes of archaeology, cities and birding. And the timing of the Antigua interlude was inspired (or lucky).  Muchas gracias.