Thursday, 25 July 2024

Mallorca

25th June – 9th July 2024

 

Plans for a Family Holiday

It is a long time since we have had a holiday with our daughter’s family. Before the pandemic, we tried to get away for at least a week each year to various holiday homes. When the grandchildren were very young, we rented cottages as far afield as Devon and Shropshire. Rachel has returned to work after a long break and vacations in school holidays have become more problematic. But a window of opportunity opened up for the start of the Scottish school holidays and, in a moment of enlightenment, we booked a villa for two weeks in the north of Mallorca. A Ryanair flight from Prestwick, just up the road, was booked for the Scottish branch of the family. Granny and Grandpa would need to find a flight from Manchester and EasyJet fitted the bill. All we needed was transport from Palma to Pollenca, a wallet full of Euros and we were off.

 

Tuesday 25th June 2024,   Arrival

We had a booked an early taxi to Manchester Airport, fearful of what we might find in Terminal 1. Two days previously, a complete loss of power had shut down this terminal and all flights in and out. However, our prompt arrival saw us sail through the baggage drop and security and enjoy a leisurely breakfast prior to boarding. Away on time, we landed in Palma 10 mins early and were out through passport control well before our Mallorcan taxi arrived. Miguel negotiated the heavy traffic around the airport, using bus lanes and local knowledge to get us onto the motorway north. Finding the villa was a problem even for a local driver but, by following Maria’s instructions and photographs and by asking neighbours, we finally arrived at Villa Maria to rendezvous with another Miguel, this one Maria’s father.

Miguel took us into Port de Pollenca to get a late lunch at a lovely restaurant in the yacht marine, La Llonja. An hour later, he dropped us at a supermarket where we grabbed bread and cheese and a bottle of wine for our supper. A game of football from Euro 2024 passed the time before the Borlands were due to arrive in our rented cars. If finding our villa in daylight was difficult, getting close in darkness proved impossible. I walked down the drive to find them by which time Rachel had rung Maria who turned out to guide them home. Finally, and very late in the day, the family holiday could begin.

 

Wednesday/Thursday 26/27th June 2024,  Exploring Port de Pollensa



The trip to the supermarket became a daily chore (or blessing if you include the coffee shop next door). At 9am each morning we were waiting for the doors to open to buy our breakfast, fresh croissants and bread. Later in the morning we returned to town with the children to  explored the market, the beach and the ice cream shops before retreating back to the villa for lunch and siestas during the heat of the day. It was the heat of the evening football that bothered me with England played a 0-0 draw to win the group at Euro 2024. The following day was in the same pattern with a different café and some serious sea swimming for the young ones. It was about time that the adults took some exercise so, with no football on TV for a few days, Rachel and I had a late excursion up the local path to the Col de Siller and beyond. It was almost dark as we returned down the rocky hillside to find the family watching a film on Netflix.

 

Sanctuari de Lluc, Friday 28th June 2024

It was time to start exploring the island, or at least our part of the island. It was the first time I had driven the rented jeep, not the best choice of routes to launch my Mallorcan driving career. The road beyond Pollenca climbed rapidly into the mountains via a series of hairpin bends. Cyclists were everywhere, from slow moving climbers to flying descenders, all adding to the need to concentrate. Eventually we reached our highpoint and dropped quickly into a fertile treelined valley surrounded by rocky hills. The Sanctuari de Lluc had a large car park and we were soon walking up an avenue of trees and into the monastery. We started with the basilica, the target for pilgrims walking through the Tramuntana Mountains. This was a dark and highly decorated church containing a famous statue to the Blessed Virgin. The lady chapel provided a few precious moments of calmness and contemplation. We all lit candles and then retreated to the café for ice creams and cake.

 

Pollentia Roman Ruins and Market Day in Pollenca, Saturday/Sunday 29/30th June 2024

The archaeological dig just outside the walls of Alcudia has revealed to remains of a large Roman town, probably more military than settlement. The site was unearthed when a modern railway line was being planned. It was never built but the Roman site had been unearthed. Johnny and I spent some time absorbing the atmosphere and reading all the interpretive boards before crossing into the modern city and looking round the small museum that contained some of the findings. The family were waiting outside a café in the market square and, after a quick coffee we returned home for an afternoon by the pool. The evening was spent watching a couple of football matches.

The next day was market day in Pollenca. Parking one car was a nightmare, never mind two. Street after street was lined with stalls selling everything from food to children’s nick-nacks. I gave each of the kids their spends and off they went into the throng. Such was the difficulty of making a purchasing decision that I had plenty of time to find a coffee and cake. All my stress came later in the day when watching England come through against Slovakia with the help of a last-minute miracle goal from Bellingham.

 

Rain and the Lighthouse, Monday 1st July 2024


Rail was the forecast for the day and it was certainly a lot cloudier and cooler. We decided to visit the lighthouse at Cap de Formentor by bus, taking notice of the warnings about travelling by car. The 11.30am bus from Port de Pollenca wound its way up and down the narrow hairpins that took the road from side to side along the barren peninsular. Passing the half-way car park, it was buses and bikes only. Even this section took great care as buses travelling up had to pass the returning buses at a very narrow tunnel exit. A lighthouse is a lighthouse and the café was packed so, after half an hour of standing on the northern-most tip of Mallorca, we jumped onto the next bus and arrived back at Port De Pollenca in a downpour. The bus station was awash with flowing surface water and one of the passengers made a paper boat that floated off

down the road. Rachel rescued the car, we sheltered and then ran, and we got home very wet but in time for a late lunch. In the evening, Rachel drove Jill and me back to town for a meal in Amazo, a highly-rated restaurant owned by a South American chef. I had sea bass on a bed of mashed potatoes followed by crème brulee. The wine was Joequin Rebolledo, Mencia 2023 from Valdeorras, Galicia.

 

Another Market and More Sea Bathing, Tuesday/Wednesday 2nd/3rd July 2024

Tuesday was market day in Alcudia so we had another episode in parking a car in the centre of chaos. The stalls were not particularly exciting although Eleanor found a nice skirt. As there was little opportunity for a quiet coffee, we were soon home in time for lunch and siestas. After an early evening meal, we made up for lost opportunities by popping in Port de Pollenca and sitting having coffee whilst the kids played on the beach. Then it was home to more football and the save of the tournament.

The next day was a quiet one near the villa. After the mandatory morning on the promenade drinking coffee and eating ice cream whilst the kids swam in the sea, we returned for an afternoon by the pool and watching Cavendish take his record-taking win at the Tour de France.

 

The Big Walk, Thursday 4th July 2024

Today was the big walk. An early start was necessary; we were not going to do anything stupid by walking through the midday heat. Three of the grandchildren volunteered to join me and two adults agreed to pick us up at the finish. In the relative cool of mid-morning, Charlotte led the way up the steep rocky path to the Col de Siller and Peter and Eleanor follow her up to the top and waited for Grandpa to pull up over the edge. Across the sun-scorched plateau, we had a bit of a spat about who would carry the water bottle. The guide book indicated a descent path to the left but we could not find it. After arriving at the top of a cliff, we retreated down a tarmac road that took us right and then back under the cliff and into the village of Cala Sant Vincent. This was in a steep sided valley with new hotels and holiday apartments but with a paucity of cafes or shops. When we met the pick-up crew, all we wanted to do was get out of there and drive home. Such was our disappointment in missing our elevenses that, after lunch, Jill and Eleanor joined me in slipping down to Port de Pollenca for coffee and cake. And whilst we were there, we booked a restaurant for another meal out. At 7.30pm, Charlotte & Rachel, Jill & me were in the El Polito, a Mallorcan-style restaurant down a quiet side street. I had a main course of duck and a dessert of almond cake and looked with envy on those that had ordered the John Dory. A beer and bottle of wine dulled the anguish.

 

Soller and Port de Soller  Friday 5th July 2024

Awoke to a new government back home. No landslides in Mallorca so, leaving the boys back at the villa, we set out on the long drive through the mountains to Soller. Rachel had arranged to meet an old friend and we were going along for the ride. Thank goodness Rachel was driving. The 90-minute drive weaved and climbed along the length of the Tramuntana range, passing through tunnels and round hairpin bends all the way until the Soller Valley opened up below. Car parking was again a nightmare but we eventually found someone backing out of a space and Rachel skilfully backed in. After passing the road works at the entrance to the town centre, we found the place packed out with tourists. A back street café/bar came to our rescue and we sat in a hidden and shady courtyard to have our elevenses. This was not the place for a relaxing rendezvous with an old friend so we extracted the car and drove to the port where parking was easier and the promenade was lined with shaded cafes with settees facing the harbour. The girls swam off the beach and Rachel and Penny caught up with their news. Jill and I sat comfortably watching the trams run up and down the prom whilst we enjoyed a light lunch. A good choice of a route home was through the long tunnel towards Palma then across country to pick up the motorway north past Inca. It was a much less stressful journey. Home for dinner and the first quarter-final of the football.

 

Ending our Holiday Nearer Home,  Sat/Sun/Monday 6/7/8th July 2024

The north end of Port de Pollenca promenade had not been explored so we parked up near the start of the Pine Walk and drank coffee whilst the kids collected shells from the beach and stuffed themselves with ice cream. Needing some exercise, I walked the length of the Pine Walk up to the military base and then returned on an inland route passing a restaurant with a swimming pool and a small modern supermarket. The calm of the day was spoilt by the excruciating experience of an England match resolved by extra time and penalties. No wonder I could not sleep.

A repeat performance on the following day, this time parking nearer the military installation, walking the Pine Walk from the far end and having coffee and ice cream as a halfway halt. I was able to combine the two pleasures with a magnificent serving of carrot cake. This end of the resort was not idea for sea swimming so we returned to the villa for a lunch, siestas, and pool before returning to the beach in the cool of the evening. This time of course, Granny and Grandpa were on beer and wine outside a waterfront café. The last full day of the holiday was more of the same, more coffee, carrot cake and beach play with last minute shopping to boot. Then back to the villa for packing suitcases and rucksacks. Bella Roma had been booked for our last supper and we all enjoyed meals of pizzas and pasta and then Robbie had a Nutella-filled pizza for dessert.

 

Homeward Bound, Tuesday 9th July 2024

The preordained departure time from the villa was 10am but we had asked for an extension  until 11am to allow us time for a last visit to the supermarket and a more leisurely breakfast. The cars were then packed with our dirty clothes and ill-gotten gains for the various markets. Off we drove, waving goodbye to Maria’s parents. Our flights were not until early evening so we had a day to explore as yes unvisited part of the island before heading to the airport.  We chose a route south through Alcudia and then on country roads down to the south east. Manacor looked a likely place for some sustenance and a break in the journey. We parked in an underground carpark and walked into the main square for coffee, cake and ice cream. It was getting hot now in the sheltered streets of the town; no sea breeze here. Unknowingly we had come to the birthplace and childhood home of Rafa Nadal, the Mallorcan tennis star. There was a museum to the great man but none of us was inclined to visit. It was time to move on to the airport and the air-conditioned terminal building.

We were too early to drop off our bag so we retired to a café and had a bite to eat. We returned to the check in at the time we had been told, only to find hundreds of people queuing to do the same. Eventually we got rid of the bag and were quickly through security and onto the plane. The journey home was not much longer than two hours and we landed so early at Manchester that we had to wait for a gate. Then all was plain-sailing and our bag was quickly retrieved from the carousal and our taxi home was booked. Thirty minutes later we were walking up our drive into a house that felt so dreadfully cold after the sub-tropical climate we had left behind. Jill shot down to the supermarket to get some food. I put the kettle on and turned on the TV ready for the second-half of the football. A grand two weeks had been had by one and all.