Australia

15^th November – 9^th December 2024

Introduction

We have travelled all over the world studiously, and except for a brief touchdown on our way to New Zealand, managing to avoid Australia. The pressure has been building. An old work colleague of Jill’s, now living with his wife near Canberra, has nagged us for years to come over. Our daughter has friends in Perth and an ex-work colleague of mine has a daughter, son-in-law and grandchildren living near Melbourne. Finally, we relented and called in Anita, our travel counsellor, to put together a schedule together. We iterated towards a plan than included Perth, Melbourne and Sydney with diversions to see Ayers Rock and the Great Barrier Reef. We had no problems in choosing our flights: with us it is Emirates and the A380 airbus every time.

On the morning of Friday 15^th November, we stood at the end of our drive waiting for our taxi to Manchester Airport. The 13.10 fight to Dubai was in the air for 7 hours, arriving a few minutes late. We had time for a drink and snack before boarding the 10-hour flight to Perth. Again, we were slightly late arriving and it was 7pm local time when we checked in to the COMO Treasury Hotel, next to the cathedral in the city centre. A room upgrade was a nice start to our trip. Two wedding receptions were underway and the local bar was heaving so we retreated to the Wine Merchants in the hotel complex and had a snacky meal and glasses of wine. We did not need much help in getting to sleep.  

 

 Perth and Margaret River   17^th – 21^st November 2024

However jet lagged we were, we had to cope with a prompt start to Sunday morning. Breakfast was taken at 8am so that we were ready for a 9am pick-up from our city guide, Arnold, a lovely man from South Africa. Kings Park was our first stop, a botanic garden situated on a raised bluff overlooking the city and the Swan River. As well as the war memorials and beautiful parkland, this gave us a feel for the layout of the city and its environs. I expressed an interest in visiting the WACA, the famous cricket ground. Arnold told us of the new stadium built out of town, the Optus Stadium and he drove us over the river and round to the new sports complex. Returning to the city, we stopped for a coffee opposite the Old Mint, now a museum of coins and jewellery. Luckily Jill was not on the lookout for extending her collection of precious stones. In the afternoon, Jill and I walked down to Elizabeth Quay and took the ferry over to South Perth, from which a fabulous view of the city is obtained. It was much quieter in the Beer Corner on our return so we dropped in for a meal and some delightful local brews of craft ale.

The next morning the hotel provided a courtesy car to take us along to the Avis car hire depot. Soon we were driving south along a busy freeway in a Toyota Corolla Hybrid. It was my first experience of an automatic car but all went well through the roadworks around Bunbury and, by lunchtime we had found a great coffee shop in Busselton, the Fire Station Café. It was not much farther to Yallingup and our accommodation for the next two nights, Cape Lodge, a hotel complex in its own estate of woodland and vineyards. Our room was in a building separated from the main complex and next to the swimming pool and lake. We were in time for afternoon tea and a much-needed siesta. I tried the toothfish for the evening meal, a new experience for me, And again the local beer was most acceptable. The next day we drove into Margaret River and had a look round this quiet little town. I wanted to get a glimpse of the ocean so we descended to the beach at Gracetown. There was nothing there except sand dunes and flies so we return to the hinterland and had a lunch in the Cheeky Monkey brewery. A wine tasting had been organised back at Cape Lodge so we got the opportunity to taste the four wines that are produced by the Lodge Estate and are for their clients only.

It was time to return to Perth but, on the way, we diverted to the lighthouse at Cape Naturaliste. Once again the flies drove us back to the car and an early lunch in Dunsborough ready for our return north up what was now a very busy road. Navigating our way off the freeway and round to the Treasury Hotel, we unloaded our bags and dropped the car back at the Avis Office. We were due to meet Joe, a friend of our daughter’s, who with his wife Jen and son Oscar had emigrated to Perth some 8 years ago. Joe worked in central town so picked us up at the hotel, drove us to their home in North Beach, and we all walked down with their Australian-born son, Calvin, to the beach and an busy little pizza restaurant and brewery. I had a great time tasting all the beers and pizzas made a substantial meal. Much chat was had by all until it was time to call a taxi and get back to our hotel. Joe kindly summoned an Uber and we had an interesting drive back to town with a driver who could not cope with road closures and had no sense of direction.

 

Melbourne and Apollo Bay   21^st – 26^th November 2024

We flew to Melbourne with Virgin Australia in a Boeing 737, a real comedown after our long-haul flights. This was more like a Ryanair trip where you buy a sandwich before you board because you get precious little on the journey. But it got us to Melbourne on time so what the heck! Our taxi was awaiting as we emerged from baggage reclaim and the driver skilfully negotiated the roads around the city centre and into the residential suburb of South Yarra. The Lyall Hotel was situated in a leafy street of grand old houses within yards of Toorak Street and the local shops. It was a haven of peace in this frenetic city and we greatly enjoyed our two nights with its quiet room and courteous staff. We ventured round the corner for a bar meal and had an early night. Next morning we took a prompt breakfast, I loved the pancakes, so we were ready for a private tour of Melbourne. A lady guide picked us exactly at the pre-arranged time and drove us to Parliament Square on the edge of the city. We walked from here, firstly along Collins Street looking for signs of Jill’s great-grandfather’s department store, Georges, founded in the late 19^th century. Failing to spot any surviving building, we then weaved through the city centre and its shopping malls and narrow passages filled with graffiti and eventually arrived down by the river and railway station. A short tram ride to recover the vehicle and a drive round to docklands put us in position for a boat ride along the river back through the city and almost up to the MCG. The rush hour traffic back to the hotel was a pain and we had no time for a relaxing siesta. We had a train to catch.

Rachael Gibson, daughter of our great friends Gillian and Walter, lives with her husband James and their two children out on the Mornington Peninsula. And the train that serviced this residential area went through South Yarra Station, no more than 400 yards from the hotel. Rachael and her son Josh were waiting at Frankston, the end to the line and took us back to their fabulous home situated overlooking a verdant garden that sloped down to a shallow valley. A memorable evening followed with a barbecue and much chat including a tour of the estate with Josh as our enthusiastic guide. Then we found that the trains were no longer running so Rachael kindly ran us to Sandringham Station, a significant way into Melbourne. It was 10.30pm before we were back in South Yarra so no early night for us, Next morning we breakfasted promptly and walked round to the local Avis Office which was not easy to locate. Returning to the hotel for our bags we ventured out into the Melbourne traffic with Jill navigating us safely onto the Westgate Freeway and south towards the Great Ocean Road. The city traffic was behind us and we were on our way to Apollo Bay. The Captain at the Bay Hotel was more like a motel or Airbnb. A central reception led into a complex of apartments and ours was on the upper deck with views of the surrounding hills. We quickly explored this one-street town and found lots of tacky cafes and bars before eventually unearthing a brewhouse of craft beers and a gorgeous restaurant. Smartening up, I had time a lovely beer before meeting Jill at the Graze for a very classy meal, pork chop & mash and gingerbread sponge, all enhanced by a Pinot Noir from the Mornington Peninsular. 

The next morning, the mist was down to sea level and it would have been pointless driving over to the Twelve Apostles. We would not have seen these off-shore sea stacks. Instead, we headed inland into the Otway National Park along narrow forest roads that made for an exciting driving experience. From the visitors’ centre, we took the Otway Fly, a treetop route through temperate rain forest. It was a remarkable construction of interlinking walkways and towers giving a wonderful introduction to the forest. For the more adventurous, there was a zipwire but not for us. Returning to Apollo Bay, we were more than ready for more craft ale and another top-class meal at an Italian restaurant, Cassalingo. Our last day in Victoria began with the drive back into Melbourne and the Westgate Freeway, then some precise navigation through the horrendous traffic to locate the Royce Hotel. We found a drop-off point for our luggage more by good luck than judgement and off-loaded our bags. We then returned our car to the South Yarra Avis depot and walked back down Toorak Street for a peaceful afternoon and evening at the Royce. The beers were more than acceptable and we enjoyed meals of octopus and John Dory fish. I was most relieved that we had changed our car return point from the prearranged city centre depot back to South Yarra. The agent that had originally tasked two strangers in a hire car with driving into a city that we knew nothing about must have had a strange sense of humour. And why we could not have been accommodated again in the Lyall Hotel remains a mystery.

 

Ayers Rock   26^th – 29^th November 2024

The taxi was early so we were having coffee in the airport with lots of time to buy our sandwiches for another foodless flight with Virgin Australia. Clocks were duly put back by 1½ hrs and we were on our way to the Red Centre, Ayres Rock airport adjacent to Uluru. Our arrival seemed to shock the baggage staff at this quiet little terminal building. Our guide, Trent, was there and raring to go but out bags took 45 minutes to emerge. The drive to the resort of Yulara took less than 10 minutes where, rather later than expected, we checked into the Sails in the Desert Hotel. We had less than an hour to gather ourselves for the evening drive into the national park. Trent took us first to the visitors’ centre and then to the base of the rock, Uluru. In a series of short walks we visited various ground level features, mainly pools and watering holes. A storm was approaching and, as we set off on our second walk the rain came down in Australian buckets. Waterfalls tumbled over the lowered cliffs and eventually the whole rock face was awash. We retreated, soaked through to our underwear, to a more distant viewpoint to watch the effect of sunset on the colouration of the desert landscape, and to drink a glass of bubbly. Very late and wet back to the hotel, we squeezed onto the very last table in the restaurant and had a very ordinary meal.

The alarm went off at 4.30am. At 4.45am, Trent was waiting to drive us over to the Kata Tjuta (Olga) mountain range where we stood on the top of a dune with a large group of tourists to view sunrise. A picnic breakfast of muesli, toast and tea was very welcome. A further drive took us to the foot of the Walpa Gorge from whence a stony footpath led into a cold wind up into the gorge between walls of sandstone and mudstone at least 2000ft high. Back at our hotel, we were just in time for a late breakfast followed be a well-earned rest. In the heat of the afternoon, we explored the rest of the resort of Yulara, its two other hotels and the town square. We were impressed by the feel of the restaurant in the Desert Gardens Hotel but, as the temperature soared, we retreat back to our Sails in the Desert restaurant for a beer and a sandwich. We dined in the evening in the Mangata Bistro, the restaurant that had caught our eye in the Desert Gardens complex. I had a lovely barramundi fish with a side of garlic bread. With no room for a pudding, we were committed to returning tomorrow evening.

Another mind-blowingly early alarm saw us ready for a 5.05am pick up by a girl called Zoe who was to take us to the airport and fly us in her helicopter over Uluru at sunrise. We were the only people in the air at this ungodly time so we had the rock to ourselves as we circled around watching the morning colours emerge from the darkness. Turning towards the Olga mountains, we could look down on yesterday’s walk and other valleys and gorges that had been out of view. A long diversion north took us over the salt pans of Lake Amadeus which, after the recent rains, was much fuller than usual. Camel tracks could be seen but we did not find any of these beasts. The return was directly into the airport and ten minutes later I was helping myself to pancakes and maple syrup in the hotel breakfast room. The rest of the morning was allocated to reading and writing. A sandwich from the supermarket sufficed for lunch before, after a brief siesta, I risked facing the heat of the afternoon in walking across to the Outback Lodge with its bar and selection of craft beers. We then prepared ourselves for our scheduled pick-up for the light show, but when we arrived, we were told that a coach had departed earlier. We had had no indication of a change in the schedule and no one seemed to care that much at the hotel. One of the reception staff offered to take us over in a courtesy car but, by this time, the evening plans were in tatters so we walked over to the Mangata Bistro and had a lighter meal of burgers and chips so that I could find room for the rum sponge pudding.

 

Cairns and Port Douglas   29^th November – 3^rd December 2024

Our old friend Trent took us back to the airport for the morning flight to Cairns. The Quantas Embraer aircraft was much more comfortable than the Boeings and we were politely early into Queensland. A quick and efficient car hire at the airport and we were soon on our way north towards Port Douglas. We were heading for Thala Beach Nature Reserve which is situated on a forested headland just shy of the town. The Reception complex is on the crest of the hill and the cabins spread downhill towards the beach. We had been allocated one near the beach but the furthest away from the restaurant. A golf buggy service is provided for the less fit visitor. But this intrepid pair mounted the cliffside steps and enjoyed pork belly and a bottle of Mornington Peninsular Pinot Noir whilst awed be the magnificent view up the coast. In the morning, we had a leisurely breakfast whilst watching a family of Rainbow Lorikeets at the bird feeder. Exploring Port Douglas, we walked around to the marina and then into the main street for a coffee and cake. Buying a sandwich and beer, we then retreated back to Thala for a siesta. It started to rain as we sat down at the beach so we returned to Port Douglas and had a splendid meal, barramundi coconut curry, in the Zinc Restaurant as the rain continued to fall.

We had booked an early buggy for a very early breakfast so we were ready for a coach pickup to take us down to the marina. We had reservations on the catamaran Sailaway VII, scheduled to leave at 8am for the Great Barrier Reef. It was a lovely sunny day and the sea was smooth and calm. We had certainly got the weather right today. It was a 2½ hour sail out to the reef and this time was spent with preparing us for the snorkelling. Of the 24 passengers on board, I was the only one to decline the offer of a swim. It was a very young clientele. This did not deter Jill who was determined to give it a go. One of the crew was a trained marine biologist and she gave us a presentation as to what was likely to be seen during the time in the water. Jill was delighted with the accuracy and comprehensiveness of this introduction. But first she must don her sting suit and flippers and get into the water. We had moored to a buoy next to the far reef some 25 miles off-shore. I was impressed by the professionalism of the operation. Jill was allowed to take her time and not be rushed or mithered whilst enjoying her snorkel. I had a quiet hour to myself under shade on the rear deck. It was most peaceful. Eventually the swimmers returned and it was time for a bite to eat all served calmly by the excellent crew. A boat ride to a local sandbank was a moment of excitement before some brave souls retook to the water for a guided swim over the reef. Then it was a 2½ hr sail back to Port Douglas and the end to a magnificent day.

After a good night’s sleep and a late breakfast where I discovered the pleasures of brioche, bacon and syrup, we drove north once more through Mossman and into the visitors’ centre of the Daintree National Park. A bus took us up to the foot of the Mossman Gorge. The 2½ mile round, via a metal walkway and over a suspension bridge, then round a steep, narrow path and tree roots, took us near 1hr 45 mins. The stifling heat in the rain forest was difficult to manage and Jill broke out into a muck sweat. We were thus more than ready for a coffee shop by the time we got back to the visitors’ centre. Their café did not look very appealing so we hopped into the car and drove back into Mossman town centre and had a light lunch in the bakery café. A cooling shower back at our beach-side cabin was so welcome and we felt human enough to return in the evening back to Port Douglas marina and the local micro-brewery, Hemmingway’s. I revelled in a paddle of five of their ales before downing another pint of my favourite whilst demolishing a plate of fish and chips. Meanwhile a black cloud descended, thunder and lightning crashed about the nearby hills and the heavens opened. The drive back to our accommodation was through a deluge, with roads fast approaching flood conditions.

 

Sydney  3^rd - 8^th December 2024

All was quiet in the morning although our local bit of jungle dripped with the overnight storm water. Saying our goodbyes to all at Thala Beach, we had an easy drive back to Cairns airport and the car drop-off was once again very smooth. The Quantas flight to Sydney, a Boeing 737-800 got away on time and was early into Sydney. The lady guide ushered us into the pick-up vehicle and we were threading our way through the afternoon traffic to our hotel, the Capella on Loftus Street. It was a pretty amazing hotel, our room having a double bathroom and complex lighting and curtain system all controlled from the bedside.  Before she left, the guide recommended a fish restaurant in the Rocks, the oldest part of town. So as soon as we were rested and changed, we set off in search of a good meal. Passing Circular Quay and the ferry terminals, we proceeded past the Museum of Contemporary Art, into Argyle Street and its pubs and bars and then into to a quiet suburb of grand old properties. We were just losing hope of finding the restaurant when we came to the Lord Nelson pub which was packed out. A few doors along Kent Street, we finally arrived at the Fish at the Rocks which luckily could squeeze us in on a table for two. The meal was magnificent, a barramundi in a mild curry sauce and a pint of Lord Nelson IPA. 

The next morning was a shopping expedition. Jill’s watch had given up the ghost the previous day and we suspected a new battery to be required. The hotel concierge recommended a shop in the Queen Victoria Building, a huge multi-floor shopping mall. We tracked down a small stall that offered to investigate and we left the watch with them for half an hour. A book shop beckoned, Dymocks was superbly stocked and had a lovely little café dotted around the upper gallery. Jill saw an opportunity for some Christmas shopping so I went walkabout. The Catholic cathedral, St Mary’s, was a delightful haven of peace and I collected my obligatory bookmark. The National Art Gallery was next on-route before I returned to the hotel over the bare fields of the Domain. We were excited with the prospect of meeting up with Julie and Glen, friends from 16 years ago before they emigrated to a new home near Canberra. They were coming down to Sydney to spend three days with us and act as guides to this fascinating city. At 4pm they arrived at our hotel and led us down the ferry port and over Sydney Harbour to the suburb of Kirribilli. Walking along the street leading to the prime minister’s and governor general’s Sydney houses, we got a wonderful view back over the harbour to the opera house. Then we found a table outside a restaurant and had a dish of fish & chips & mushy peas with a pale ale called 150 lashes. The return ferry, with all the city lit up around us and the Queen Elizabeth Cunard liner moored beneath the bridge, was a memorable experience.

The next morning the four of us regathered at our hotel and we walked down to the Opera House and round to Farm Bay. We broke our uphill ascent through the botanic gardens at a café and then continued up to the National Gallery where Julie and Jill disappeared into an art expedition and Glen and I sought out the Sydney Tower and 30 minutes gazing at the incredible panorama. After another visit to Dymocks for books and coffee, we adjourned for a rest before taking the fast ferry to Watson’s Bay and a fabulous fish restaurant, Doyles. I had snapper and Thai salad with a local lager brewed especially for the restaurant. The only way home was by bus. This terminated at a distant point in the Rocks district and we were another 15 minutes navigating dark deserted streets back into the city centre.

Another day, another ferry, this time to Darling Bay. On a beautiful morning, we took a ferry passed another cruise liner and under the harbour bridge. The old docklands and warehouses had been regenerated into a modern waterfront with restaurants and cafes too busy to serve us. After a walk around the splendid gardens overlooking the harbour, we decided to walk back into the city and the shopping streets. Once more the group disappeared into Dymocks for more Christmas nick-nacks and I took the opportunity of visiting the Anglican Cathedral, far quieter and less pretentious that its Catholic cousin. The party then split yet again, Jill wanting the Sydney Tower experience whilst I was keen to visit the observatory. Julie, Glen and I trekked once more into the Rocks and up through the gardens on the hill top at Millers Point. Being promised a guided tour in 45 minutes we retired briefly to the National Trust café and had a pleasant, if rather weirdly served, coffee and cake. The tour of the telescopes and observatory dome was fascinating and we even got the chance to open the roof ourselves. Then we returned via the back streets in Circular Quay and our hotels, We had our last supper together to organise. The Fish at the Rocks was fully booked so we reserved a table in the Capella and ate in familiar surroundings. An excellent meal except for the news that they only had one can left of craft beer. So onto the wine!

 

A low cloud hung over the city for our last day together. Manly was our ferry destination for the morning, one of the longest crossings to the mouth of the harbour, By the time we had disembarked and walked across town to the Pacific coast beach, a drizzle had set in. A coffee did not trigger an improvement in the weather and we had little choice but to reverse our journey and come back to the city. As the rain was set for the day, we went looking for a suitable venue for lunch. The Sofitel Hotel where Julie and Glen were staying seemed very amenable so had a light lunch, said our goodbyes and went our various ways, Julie and Glen back to Canberra and work, Jill and I back for a siesta. In late afternoon, we set off once more into the Rocks which was by now heaving with Saturday night drinkers. The noise and heat in the pubs were intolerable, the Fish at the Rocks was fully booked again and we were beginning to feel rather dispirited when we happened upon the Captain Cook pub in Kent Street. The beer was fabulous and when we found that they provided pub grub, life took a turn for the better. Our previous expeditions through the more remote areas of the old town stood us in good stead and we soon found our way home to start packing our bags.

 

 The Last Day and the Journey Home   8^th – 9^th November 2024

It was our last day of this wonderful trip and we had a private tour of the Opera House booked for just before 10am. We walked down to the harbour front on a bright sunny morning before the heat of the day kicked in. A quiet and polite guide met us in the Opera House entrance and gave us a comprehensive tour of both halls, concert & opera, and the adjoining viewing galleries around the building. Suitably exhilarated by this unique building, we then returned to the hotel and checked out, leaving our bags in a safe store. A pleasant harbourside restaurant provided us with a light lunch and then we took a ferry out to Manly hoping to see it in better weather. But right on cue the clouds and drizzle returned and, after a brief café stop, we returned into Sydney and established ourselves in the guests’ lounge until it was time to reclaim our bags and locate our pick up for the airport.

The international terminal was a hive of activity but our bags were soon checked in and another café received our patronage before boarding the 21.15 Emirates flight to Dubai, a 14-hour marathon into the prevailing wind. Another transit of Dubai and another coffee before queuing to board the Manchester flight. This was only 7 hours duration and had the added feel of going home, An early landing on Monday morning was negated by a long wait for our baggage and our taxi got us home by soon after midday. Jill disappeared down to Sainsbury for much needed supplies and I put the first of many washes into our washing machine. Feeling a little tired, I thought I would lie down for few minutes. I awoke in the middle of the night still fully clothed, donned my pyjamas and slept in total 15 hours through till Tuesday morning. I think I had been a little tired!